A 10th Restaurant for Boulud

Celebrity chef Daniel Boulud just recently opened his 10th restaurant, and this one (like four others) is in New York.

The location of Boulud's DBGB Kitchen and Bar is 299 Bowery -- not what you would call an upscale, showcase address in Manhattan. In fact, the Wall Street Journal's Raymond Sokolov writes that Boulud is

slumming it a bit on this stretch of a rapidly gentrifying Skid Row, but he's slumming with the swagger of someone who knows the neighborhood.

. . . The DBGB concept is simple on the surface: charcuterie and other down-home dishes from Mr. Boulud's native Lyon. Even people who know that gastronomic capital of central France well won't be disappointed.

Sokolov is probably right about that. But I wouldn't describe Lyon as a city in "central France." Lyon is a half-hour closer to Marseilles than it is to Bourges, which is almost perfectly in the geographical center of the nation.