Friday, August 29, 2008

Those AOC Wine Bureaucrats

Are bureaucratic rules wrecking French wine? Mike Steinberger thinks so. Here's what he wrote at

In recent years, (winemaking) stars like Jean Thevenet, Didier Dagueneau, Eloi Dürrbach, Marcel Lapierre, Thierry and Jean-Marie Puzelat, Marcel Richaud, Georges Descombes, and Philippe Jambon have all had wines turned down (for appellation status) for being insufficiently representative of their respective appellations.

So they were: They were excellent wines produced in districts that mostly churn out swill.

This curious trend comes at a time when much of the French wine industry is in crisis, and the economic gap between good producers and not-so-good ones is becoming a chasm.

. . . This much is clear: The system for classifying and administering French wines is broken and in dire need of reform.

The entire article is here.

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