Not So Locally Sourced

From the N.Y. Times:

Restaurants (in the San Francisco Bay area) that so prominently credit their local food purveyors on their menus no doubt feature local wines loudly and proudly, right?

Not quite. A surprising number of Bay Area restaurants, including many dedicated to cooking with local ingredients, offer wine lists dominated by European bottles.

... “Though I love a lot of California winemakers and try to support them wherever possible,” (said Chris Deegan, sommelier of the restaurant Nopa). “I find myself drinking European wines most of the time and pairing European wines more successfully with the food.”

I totally understand what he means. For example, most pinot noirs produced in California and Oregon taste thin and lack structure -- too heavy to work well with pasta or seafood, but not enough backbone to make a good fit with beef or pork.