Monday, February 23, 2009

Review: Denver's Fruition

Late last week, I capped a busy week on the road with a dinner at Denver's Fruition, located on East 6th Avenue — on the edge of the Capitol Hill neighborhood.

In 2007, Gourmet magazine hailed Fruition for creating "pristine comfort food." I'd seen that issue of the magazine so I was looking to check out this restaurant while I was in the Mile High city.

I started with a poached pear with pancetta-wrapped dates and feta. It was tasty. My main course was a pork tenderloin on a bed of bacon-braised brussel sprouts and a pommery mustard sauce. It was excellent.

The wine list was large enough to provide ample options, but small enough not to overwhelm customers. My server was unusually knowledgeable about wine. He guided me to a Cabernet Sauvignon that I enjoyed. The producer was Magness — medium-bodied and light on the tannins. It drank more like a Pinot Noir, but I mean that in a good way. Sometimes Cabs take far took long to "open up" in the glass; Magness didn't have that problem.

If I had any complaint at all, it would be to ask the kitchen staff to add salt with a lighter hand. One can always add more, but one cannot subtract it.

Service was excellent, and servers there seem to know the menu well. It's not a large menu, but all the bases are covered — seafood, beef, pork and poultry.

If my work takes me back to Denver, I would gladly make a return trip to Fruition.

No comments: