Monday, June 8, 2009

Rhubarb the Veggie

In the N.Y. Times, Melissa Clark notes that rhubarb is more versatile than most cooks realize. She writes:

. . . I wanted to break the always-add-lots-of-sugar mold. Rhubarb is technically a vegetable, so why not treat it as such? I had been planning to make a duck curry, based on a Madhur Jaffrey recipe that called for vinegar. With its naturally acidic flavor, rhubarb might stand in for most of the vinegar.

. . . Just as I had hoped, the rhubarb melted into the sauce, thickening it and lending a deep and delightfully piquant flavor. Made again, with chicken in place of duck, the curry was nearly as good, though the sauce was slightly less rich.

Yet, acknowledging how wonderful rhubarb is in crumbles, cobblers and the like, Clark's article is accompanied by a recipe for a raspberry-rhubarb cobbler with cornmeal biscuit topping.

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