First, some of the raves:
- "For the moment, anyway, Mr. Colicchio's (restaurant) is the must-try New York menu ... the food is terrifically good."
- The restaurant's pastry chef is "fearsomely talented."
- "... it's hard to go wrong with an appetizer of butter-poached oysters, off the menu."
- A chicken pot-au-feu "maintains the Escoffier standard while stepping into the modern age ..."
Now, the reviewer's caveats:
About the only misses are a perfectly cooked and defiantly under-seasoned fist of sirloin that is no match for the salsify, bacon and black garlic that come with it, and, for the same reason, a braised loup de mer with pork trotter and shallots cooked sweet and sour.
I find this mild criticism of Colicchio's restaurant ironic because a standard gripe of Colicchio's on "Top Chef" episodes is that one of the contestants hasn't "properly seasoned" a dish. (When he says that, Colicchio seems to be talking about salt and pepper.) So reading that prompted this snarky thought: "Physician, heal thyself."