The review is headlined "Kandinsky in the Kitchen" for good reason. Everything that is presented to diners is supposed to have an edgy, artistic flourish. But does it taste good? I seriously doubt it based on the descriptions.
For example, the opening course "consisted of a single rock shrimp, charred lily bulbs (bitter, rather acrid), some crisped goat cheese, and what the menu called 'pineapple scramble': this was pineapple that had been roughly pureed and mixed with a bit of gelatin ... to attain the precise texture of scrambled eggs."
Um, no thank you.
I wish chef Wylie Dufresne the best of luck, but I will not be contributed to his financial bottom line. I much prefer food over frolic.