You think it's tough enough for a chef to grill a Porterhouse steak to perfection? Or to deglaze a pan and reduce a sauce to just the right consistency?Well, imagine doing those kinds of things in the kitchen and also having to act as the waiter, the maitre d', and the coat-check dude. In this NY Times article, Julia Moskin writes about restaurant chefs who wear all of those hats.

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