Star chefs aren’t exactly famous for being early risers, because late-night dinners keep them in the kitchen long after most working people have called it a day. Recently, though, chefs on both coasts have begun heading back to their restaurants at dawn — to add a new meal to their repertoire.Yum. So when do we eat?
In Manhattan, Daniel Boulud serves an elegantly simple French-style breakfast at his DB Bistro Moderne, and Jody Williams has expanded Morandi’s menu to include a luxe Italian-style breakfast. In Los Angeles, Hans Röckenwagner’s new 3 Square Café + Bakery offers an original German-inspired breakfast, as well as lunch and dinner (the other two squares).
Some of the most inventive morning dishes anywhere are being prepared by chef Neal Fraser at L.A.’s BLD (Breakfast Lunch Dinner) Restaurant. Breakfast is Fraser’s favorite meal, and it’s the only one he ever consistently cooks at home. He was determined to make it an integral part of BLD from the outset.
"I think there’s lots of potential for creativity at breakfast that hasn’t been tapped," he says.
And Fraser’s fans get a chance to see what a great chef can do with a meal that, at its core, is homey and welcoming.
Every day at 8 a.m., BLD starts serving a full-on breakfast that ranges from fresh takes on the classics — tender, moist ricotta pancakes; crisp-edged, fluffy French toast smothered in a sweet-tart fresh berry compote — to innovative choices like kouign amann (a sweet, layered Breton bread) and braised pork shanks with poached eggs (for the customers, Fraser says, "who really get it").
Wednesday, January 9, 2008
My Favorite Meal
Without a doubt, it's breakfast. More specifically, it's weekend breakfast. I sometimes eat "breakfast foods" for dinner. So this article by Kate Heddings at Food & Wine's website caught my eye: