The location of Boulud's DBGB Kitchen and Bar is 299 Bowery -- not what you would call an upscale, showcase address in Manhattan. In fact, the Wall Street Journal's Raymond Sokolov writes that Boulud is
slumming it a bit on this stretch of a rapidly gentrifying Skid Row, but he's slumming with the swagger of someone who knows the neighborhood.Sokolov is probably right about that. But I wouldn't describe Lyon as a city in "central France." Lyon is a half-hour closer to Marseilles than it is to Bourges, which is almost perfectly in the geographical center of the nation.
. . . The DBGB concept is simple on the surface: charcuterie and other down-home dishes from Mr. Boulud's native Lyon. Even people who know that gastronomic capital of central France well won't be disappointed.